Back to life in the campo...

I have returned from vacationing in the States to the beautiful weather of almost-summer in Jinotega.  Windy, sunny, cool, and much less rain than we saw in September.

My return with seven new Curious George (Jorge el Curioso) books was well received by the niños.  They all want me to give them a book...I am still trying to sell the idea that if they participate in the small library, they can read a different book each week instead of only owning one.  I suppose it is natural for us to want, especially those of us in the world who have less, but I also see this want as part of the culture in the community that prevents progress.  I observe that most people do not like the idea of working together toward a goal.  One local micro-finance project in my town seems marginally successful at the moment; from my perspective the success is largely due to the fact that the participants are working alone.  I view group projects as less popular.  Really, there are pros and cons to both situations and if a project forces people to work together against their preference, that project probably should not be here in the first place; the prospect of sustainability is low.

Coffee is starting to ripen, the processing plants along the road outside of Sebaco are already in action and my host family has a couple of workers pícking berries today as well.  Farmers in my town are selling the last of their ayote (large zuchini like squash), we are tapiscando maíz (picking the dried cobs from the stalks), and at the end of November we will plant beans.  Corn and beans are the staple foods here; most of this harvest is kept for consumption throughout the year.  As I picked corn cobs yesterday with two other men, working in silence under the quickly passing clouds, my arms itched and turned red from the small fibers on the corn plants.  I thought:  most people in my country cannot imagine having to grow the food that is necessary to get through the year...

Aside from community banking, I feel I am largely unemployed.  This worries me and makes me wonder if I would be better off earning money back in the U.S.  At the same time, the hope for progress in some future community projects keeps my curiosity alive.  Also, as I evaluate my situation, I find some happiness in knowing that have I acted as a facilitator for two recent successes, even though my role was minimal: the local school was able to plant strawberries (thanks to my Peace Corps neighbors Simon and Kara) and it appears my town will get a new volunteer soon to teach English.  English assistance seems to be in higher demand than agriculture related help.

This morning I left the house with my host mother, Doña Chepa, rambling on about how she felt shameful that she would let me leave the house without eating breakfast.  Truth be told, I could not think about eating the beans and tortillas at 5:45 this morning.  When I went to the call center to phone home nobody answered.  I sat in the booth and overheard another gringo talking to his wife.  He was just here to visit and I smiled as I compared our experience.  He was describing how wonderful it was here--the natural beauty, the tropical fruits, the dark nights that reveal all the stars.  I too saw the stars last night, and smiled when the cow said good morning at my doorstep.  But, after more than a year here I can also say that Nicaragua has worn me down and I sound less positive than the tourist when I talk to my family...